Thursday, February 16, 2012
Tough Pyramid
I tried to up my pyramid intensity tonight. Instead of starting with four v2s, I started with four v3s. Tonight was a horrible night attempt this workout. I ended up having a little less than an hour an a half to complete it opposed to my normal two. I managed to flash or onsight every route on the first half of the pyramid, but failed to send the v6 within three attempts. My first attempt got me to the last move. For the next two attempts I moved to a different 6 and got about half way. The back half of the pyramid was a success, but I did get pumped. I can't decide if I'm ready for this jump yet. I'm fairly certain the workout isn't designed for a pump. Also, my form broke down on a few of the back half routes... Overall I felt like I accomplished a good workout. I'll try this intensity again, but I'll give myself more time to rest between burns.
Monday, February 13, 2012
Friday, February 10, 2012
10 v5s!
Patience paid off tonight. I gave myself about ten minutes rest between each 5. I day-flashed 8 of the problems, finished the other 2 on my second try, and fell on three others. For the most part, I was able to maintain form throughout the workout. The added pressure of finishing each route within 2-3 attempts definitely kept me psyched.
Monday, February 6, 2012
Workout Log
I haven't been in the mood to post lately, but I want to make sure I log my workouts before I forget them. I don't quite remember the order of my workouts over the past few weeks, so they will not be listed chronologically.
4x4 workout: I tried to do a 4x4 workout doing all v4s with each set. I managed to successfully do this for 3 sets. On the forth set, third route, I fell. I finished the workout with two v3s.
10 v5s: The goal was to send 10 v5s in one night. I struggled to get 7. I tried 14. I was happy with my results, but I was surprised I could not achieve 10 sends.
Threshold: I usually don't hop on routes that are past my limit for fear of injury, but I took a chance and projected some v8s in order to work on recruitment muscles. I wanted to project about 3 problems that I could only get 2-4 moves in before I fell. I would try each about 4 times. On the first 8 I managed to get the first 4 moves. On the second 8 i tried, I could link two moves at a time until the first crux. The third eight was hopeless... the beta was desperate pinpoint moves. I couldn't do one of them.
I don't know how much this workout actually helped me improve. I decided to do a hangboard workout after to feel some sense of accomplishment: 20lb belt on metolius simulator: Flat slopers 7sec on 3 sec off x 5. Medium crimp, same. Pinches on Seattle Bouldering Project system wall, same. Two finger pocket one hand--large crimp other hand (useless sets) 7 sec on 3 sec off rotating for a total of 8.
Project 7s: I got another v7 set for the recent comp held at SBP for ABS divisional. It took me a total of 7 attempts, three attempts on the day I sent it. I tried another 7 that calls for interesting movement on and around two pyramid volumes. I could get to the move before the first crux. It took me a while to figure out the beta, but now that I have it, I know I can at least get to the crux next time I come in fresh. I have some videos from this day that I'll post soon.
I think I did another pyramid workout in there somewhere. It was nothing special--starting at v2s and climbing up to one v5 and back down. Seattle got some snow recently, go I took a short break from climbing (4 days) to enjoy it. I had the pleasure to climb with my friends Darrell and James a few days after my previous post. I loved it. We all climbed very well. I managed to send three v6s that day. I also went down to Tacoma to climb at Edgeworks with Darrell. I spent most of my time on a very creative v7. I succeeded in unlocking all the moves except the last. I linked most of them together on my last attempt.
4x4 workout: I tried to do a 4x4 workout doing all v4s with each set. I managed to successfully do this for 3 sets. On the forth set, third route, I fell. I finished the workout with two v3s.
10 v5s: The goal was to send 10 v5s in one night. I struggled to get 7. I tried 14. I was happy with my results, but I was surprised I could not achieve 10 sends.
Threshold: I usually don't hop on routes that are past my limit for fear of injury, but I took a chance and projected some v8s in order to work on recruitment muscles. I wanted to project about 3 problems that I could only get 2-4 moves in before I fell. I would try each about 4 times. On the first 8 I managed to get the first 4 moves. On the second 8 i tried, I could link two moves at a time until the first crux. The third eight was hopeless... the beta was desperate pinpoint moves. I couldn't do one of them.
I don't know how much this workout actually helped me improve. I decided to do a hangboard workout after to feel some sense of accomplishment: 20lb belt on metolius simulator: Flat slopers 7sec on 3 sec off x 5. Medium crimp, same. Pinches on Seattle Bouldering Project system wall, same. Two finger pocket one hand--large crimp other hand (useless sets) 7 sec on 3 sec off rotating for a total of 8.
Project 7s: I got another v7 set for the recent comp held at SBP for ABS divisional. It took me a total of 7 attempts, three attempts on the day I sent it. I tried another 7 that calls for interesting movement on and around two pyramid volumes. I could get to the move before the first crux. It took me a while to figure out the beta, but now that I have it, I know I can at least get to the crux next time I come in fresh. I have some videos from this day that I'll post soon.
I think I did another pyramid workout in there somewhere. It was nothing special--starting at v2s and climbing up to one v5 and back down. Seattle got some snow recently, go I took a short break from climbing (4 days) to enjoy it. I had the pleasure to climb with my friends Darrell and James a few days after my previous post. I loved it. We all climbed very well. I managed to send three v6s that day. I also went down to Tacoma to climb at Edgeworks with Darrell. I spent most of my time on a very creative v7. I succeeded in unlocking all the moves except the last. I linked most of them together on my last attempt.
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