Two Steps Forward, One Step Back

I took a trip down to Tacoma about a week ago and managed to get some climbing in at their "new" gym: Climb Tacoma. The gym is small, but efficient in terms of maximizing space. They grade with the color system: White, Blue, Green... Yellow v4-5, Red v6-7, Pink v8+ I was happily surprised at my performance. I managed to pull down one red route, while also getting to the last move on two other red routes. A few days later I climbed at Stone Gardens with Lauren and lead onsighted a 5.11+. Unfortunately this streak didn't last. Last night I tried to climb as many v4s as I could at SG. I think I managed to complete two... I think a couple threes threw me off at the end of the night as well. Sure, I could lose more weight and eat better--but that's being extremely particular. If I lost more than 10 pounds I would be unhealthy and I'm now a vegan who eats mostly organic, whole foods. Room for improvement, but not by much. On days like yesterday, I just have to remind myself that hard work will eventually pay off.

The Sickness

Just as I was starting to see improvement, I got the flu and had to miss about two weeks of climbing. Im back in it now...two days ago I took my good friend Sammy to the gym and I was unable to pull down any v5s :( I've spent the last few days watching videos on "Louder than 11" Vimeo, so I'm still psyched for climbing, but I would be lying if I said my drop in grades isn't frustrating me. The good news is I see no other option than to keep climbing--"just keep climbing," as Dori would say. I'm miserable if I don't do some type of activity and climbing consistently keeps me wanting more--more so than any other sport I've tried. Hopefully consistency will pay off and I'll see a v9 before my athletic ability peaks!

Lots o strugglin

Set out for a volume workout of 8 v4s today. I managed to barely pull off seven. Thinking back, I'm not where I was a year ago. I made these fours look like eights. I struggled to get each one of the seven v4s today... After the third failed four of the day, I almost quit the workout, but I had nothing better to do and I'm tired of feeling sorry for myself, so I got on the wall and made my first completion. Workouts since my last post included several climbing sessions with Lauren--none of which felt like any progress on my part was made; however, Lo is schralpin harder every burn! I also tried to project a v7 at UW's gym. I got to the crux and after the crux--I just couldn't link the two. I wasn't a huge fan of their gym. I think I've just been spoiled with SPB, Stone Gardens, and Vertical World. The very next day after projecting at UW, I tried to project again at SG... And Iearned my lesson. Projecting two days in a row doesn't do anyone any good... At least not at the level I'm at now. I'm hoping to climb again in a few days

Pyramid Completion (sort-of)

Today I set out to complete a pyramid workout. However, instead of peaking at v4, I chose to jump up to v5. I had a couple great workouts after my last pyramid. Along with going in the gym to climb sport several times, I also completed a 4 x 4 workout with a combination of v2s and v3s, and a volume workout with all v3s (completing 14 routes!). Overall, the workout went very well. I managed to complete all but two problems: a descending v4 and v3. The rest I got within two tries. With this completion I've asserted myself at about the same level I was at this time last year. My goal is to continue with this progression: climb a v8 by April. The next time I'm fully recovered at the gym I'm hoping to project for a v7 (probably next week sometime).
*I'm also very excited that Lauren and I have gotten certified in lead climbing at Stone Gardens--now both of us can start doing more intense workouts when we climb together!

Back in the Game

I just read my last post and it brought both hope and disparity to me. It's tough to read my last post and remember how successful I had been prior to pulling my hamstring and taking time off for school and work. The v8 which I'd hoped to film was the culprit of my hamstring pull. I was unable to walk for a couple days, so I tried to give it a month's rest before I got back on the wall. Rest wasn't enough. At that point I started a post-bac in Speech and Hearing Science at UW. It had been over a year since I had attended school, so I wanted to try to give it my full attention--putting climbing on the back burner. I took a large class load and worked 30 hrs. There was no time for climbing, but looking back, I should have made the time. Without physical activity--especially one that I'm so passionate about--I became a different person: unmotivated, often grumpy or depressed, just hanging onto the need to complete the quarter for completion sake. No more. This quarter I've made climbing a priority, taken a smaller class load and cut down on my work schedule. Although my experience without climbing was a bit tragic, I believe it was necessary for me to appreciate other aspects of climbing besides route grades. I still hope to improve, but I now know the importance of the sport--improvement or not--to my well being. I started back again about 3 weeks ago. I've gotten a couple 6s, but nothing spectacular or particularly hard. Today I tried my first workout: a pyramid workout starting at *sigh* v1s and working my way up to a v4. Unfortunately, I was unable to complete a v4 or any v3s after attempting the v4. I felt frustrated for sure, but I have high hopes for the future. I want to direct my focus toward sport climbing outdoors. I've tried bouldering outside a few times, but it's just not my thing. However, I've sport climbed outside more than I can count and I absolutely love it. I'm not very comfortable leading anything past a 5.11, so my goal is to improve this fall and winter in the gym for a stellar outdoor season, leading a high 5.12, or a low 5.13!

Lost Route and Horrible Climbing

My next time in the gym was with Darrell. I ended up projecting an 8--I linked every move but the first move! Unfortunately they took the route down already so I'll have to find another project. Last night I tried another pyramid workout... I did horrible. I was fine until I got to the v6. After three attempts, I moved back down the ladder. I was so distracted by my failure that I didn't finish the workout. I only did one v5 and three v4s after the falls. One of the 4s took me five tries to figure out the beta. Next time I need to keep my head in the game and finish the workout.

(This post was from the week after post: Updates around 3/3/12)

Updates

After the tough pyramid a had a great night where I got two v7s... I can't remember too much about them other than the fact that I flashed one of them. A few days later I tried the tough pyramid again with great success. I wasn't rushed, so I took my time and it paid off! I managed to flash or insight every route starting at 3s, then up to a 6, and back down. At this point I took a week break because my forearms began to hurt from overuse. I came back from the break a few days ago with great success. I managed to pull down 3 v7s in a night. Onsight, flash, and a send on the second attempt. I also played on an 8 that seems very possible for my ability. I'd rather post a video of the route than describe it, so wish me luck! Last night I tried to repeat my volume v5 night, aiming for 10 sends, but to my surprise I pulled down 13 v5s. I'm sore and proud. All were onsights or flashes save 2, which I completed second attempt. Thanks for reading.